Monday, January 7, 2008

Chinchero and Ollantaytambo

Click on the blog title to listen to a story about the Inca Ollantaytambo Rulers.

I am currently writing on the train ride to Machu Picchu. I must say, I am not a fan of Peru Rail, although their trains are nice. In order to go through the mountains, at times we need to go through a series of switchbacks. For those of you not familiar with the term, it’s usually a term used for descending or ascending mountains. The train will get to one point on the mountain and stop. Then we move in reverse and switch to a higher or lower track. We travel for a few minutes, stop, back up, and switch tracks up or down again. The ascent in Cuzco lasted over forty minutes this way. The scenery is beautiful though. By train, we are able to see things you would not be able to see unless you hiked through this region.

I wanted to make sure I posted a blog about yesterday’s activities before we reached Machu Picchu. Yesterday, we went into the Sacred Valley of the Inca. On the way in we stopped in a town called Chinchero in order to see a demonstration of how the Andean people weave their textiles. The wool from alpaca is only shaved once every two years. After retrieving the alpaca wool, it is washed with the root of a plant that acts as a strong soap, leaving the wool a bright clean color. Afterward, the wool is dyed using a variety of techniques involving plants, bugs, and a natural fixative. The resulting colors are vibrant and permanent. You can follow the demonstration through the slide show I posted yesterday. You can also view a short video from National Geographic through the following link. Chinchero National Geographic Video

During the demonstration, they brought us a cup of coca tea. I believe the coca has been the main source towards curing the side affects I have been having from the altitude. I am no longer shaking, but I do get easily winded when ascending anything at all or over exerting myself. I have found that the altitude is forcing me to slow down, which is a good thing. At the end of the demonstration, we were blessed for the New Year by the demonstrator. He came around to each of us and sprinkled bright yellow confetti on our heads followed by a hug while reaffirming the blessing. The Andean culture is so welcoming to everyone here. It was interesting to me that the demonstration is given for free, they do not ask for a fee. At the end, we are offered the opportunity to tip or purchase their textiles. It is hard to pass up purchasing the textiles after seeing the quality of the material used and the amazing workmanship involved. The quality is one I have yet to see anywhere else. I did pass up the textiles here though because I had in mind a specific item I wanted. However, I did find some authentic pottery which can also be seen in the slide show.

Afterward, we traveled to the Inca ruins of Ollantaytambo. The village surrounding the original structure is built on top of the ruins. The streets were so narrow; at times I did not believe our bus would fit through the buildings. Throughout the town there are water channels which the locals wash their clothing in among other things. Many of the channels are based on the original Inca system. As needed it has been repaired, but it is believed that the water channels in the mountains (where the water is flowing from) is still the original Inca system. To our amazement, we were stuck within the town due to the festivities for the final day of their Christmas holiday. We were able to get off the bus and join the procession. As we watched, there were flute players and trumpet bands, dancers with face masks, members of the clergy, locals, and visitors following a procession of saints which were carried in glass boxes on the shoulders of volunteers. We had the opportunity to take photos and record the music. The following is a compilation of the music and images.


It’s fun to have the opportunity to write this while on the train. For the past fifteen minutes we have been passing Inca terraces and been able to have a wonderful view of temples high in the Andes. On my right side, there are people descending from the mountain with donkeys.

In Ollantaytambo, we climbed the Inca terraces. When we first arrived, there was a light rain, but as we began our ascent the rain eventually dissipated and the clouds provided us with a wonderful lighting for pictures. At the top, a few of us continued to follow a path that went straight up the side of the mountain. While it was steep and a bit on the dangerous side, it was worth all the risk and every penny spent for this trip. At the top we had the perfect view of the valley below and of the layout of the ruins. If I had my choice, I’d never have left. At the top of the ruins of the Temple of the Sun, I finally understood why the Andean people worshipped the mountains. After a morning of snaking through the mountains, viewing how the people truly live, and finding an inner peace among the Inca terraces, I had a feeling of complete calm and understanding.

We had to leave shortly after reaching the top in order to make our lunch reservations. After a Peruvian gourmet buffet, we proceeded to the Indian market at Pisca. It is one of the largest and most diverse markets in the Sacred Valley of the Inca. We only had an hour to spare, but it was enough time to find a few unique items. I have to work on my bargaining strategy though. The prices are often raised as much as 400% over the actual price. Someone might state a price of $75, but the right person can walk away with the item for $13. Luckily, we have a few of the right people on this trip. The night ended over a meal of alpaca steak. It was not my favorite meal, but it was beautifully presented. I found alpaca to be on the tough side and a bit chewy. I am looking forward to Wednesday. I finally decided that when in Peru, eat like the Peruvians. We found a few good restaurants for cuy and a few brave souls willing to eat it. We are about an hour outside Machu Picchu right now. The peaks of the mountains are beginning to be snow peaked and there are waterfalls off the mountains. When I look out the window I am jealous of the people farming the land. They lead such a peaceful and calm life, something I will continue to search for myself.

No comments: